Showing posts with label Prague. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Prague. Show all posts

Sunday, April 27, 2014

Re-'Czech'ing out Prague

For the long Easter weekend (because we live in Bavaria, so of course we had 2 extra days off work for public holidays) we decided to return to Prague.  Or like Noah likes to call it, the Disney World of European cities for tourists.  We can see why Prague often makes it on the top of ‘best European cities for travelers’ lists – it is full of charm, small enough to walk around, and easy to feel comfortable in.  Menus come in an average of 4 languages, and most employees in the shops and restaurants match that.  So while I tend to doubt how authentic of a ‘Czech’ experience you get there – that takes a backseat to being able to have an ‘easy’ vacation.

To get to Prague from Munich, DBahn has a non-stop coach bus for a pretty good price – only 29EUR one way/person.  Arriving a bit later than the scheduled ~4 hour trip (guess we weren’t the only ones from Munich who decided to spend Easter in Prague), we head back to Hotel Friday.  I think we should get some kind of discount at that place, because both my parents and my brother/wife have stayed there based on our recommendation.  And we still would suggest it – great location, though the breakfast has gone downhill some. 

 After unpacking, we decide that our first plan of attack is to find food.  I checked online for some tips, and located a ‘budget-friendly’ Himalayan Indian restaurant.  We arrive to a tiny place with 4 tables offering roughly 7 dishes from a plastic menu.  Perfect.  I don’t even know what I got except judged for adding nan bread to my meal (YES I know it comes with rice… I just really love bread), but it was delicious.  And really cheap. 


After dealing with priority 1, our stomachs, we were ready to wander the town.  The nice thing about going to a city we have been before is that we don’t feel any pressure to hit the main sights – because we already have!  Instead we can just do what we feel like with no rushing around. 

So on to priority 2 – Julie’s stomach.  Specifically – her almost 2 year craving for a trdelnik.  More specifically - from a bakery on a street that we don’t know the name of (the bakery or the street).  No worries – I was confident that my memory could get us back, and we knew the general direction.  And after a bit of wandering and a short scare that the bakery was replaced by a McDonalds (just one street off) – we found it!!  And this time I documented the name – Creperie U Kajetana.  With the trdelnik in hand, we headed up the street to some steps to sit and people watch – our favorite thing to do last time we were in Prague. 

View from our steps


Now that I was stuffed to the brim, I needed to do some more walking to feel better about myself.  Noah and I headed up the path to Prague Castle – not to go in, but to take in the views from up there. 


A random photo of Noah just to prove he was happy to be there too. 

The next day we started off by heading to the other side of the Vlatva River to climb the hills to the Petrin Lookout Tower (which looks like a small Eiffel Tower).  We don’t know how the views are if you go up the tower since the line was ridiculously long, but the views at the base are not very good.  The tower sits in a bit of a valley at the top of the hill, restricting you from seeing very far.  But – if you take the path down towards Prague Castle, you are rewarded with some very nice views of the city. 


We wandered back to Old Town Square for a nice ham lunch and to peruse the Easter markets that filled the place.  It reminded us of the German Christmas Markets in that while you have a lot of booths around the city, the variety is pretty slim – food, desserts, painted eggs (not that Germany has that), and various trinkets.  But it was nice to see, and we left with a few of the painted eggs. 


Our next stop was the John Lennon wall.  Based on photos we saw from the internet, it looked like a really neat wall full of graffiti art.  When we got there, we could tell that the graffiti had taken a different turn.  Instead of cool paintings of Beatles lyrics and art, it was full of people’s names and things like ‘Spring Break 2014’.  A bit disappointing, but what can you do.  Luckily we could still found John Lennon’s face, albeit with a moustache painted on. 


It was now about trdelnik’o’clock, so naturally we made our way back to our shop and steps.  Naturally. 


We decided to head up the Charles Bridge Tower to catch sunset, and hopefully some nice photos.  While the sunset itself wasn’t too magnificent (thanks clouds!), we still had some fun playing with long exposures.  That is, until the spotlights turned on to light up the tower we were in. 



Now it was about time for dinner, and we were contemplating what to eat.  After feeling each other out to see if the other would judge us, we settled on TGIFridays.  Yes, you read that right.  Good old TGIFridays – the all American chain.  And we had no qualms about it either.  Granted, if we were only in Europe for a week, I would feel pretty lame about eating at a place like that.  But with the exception of 2 weeks in the US, we have been stuck with European food for the last 28 months.  With that – we dug into our burgers and fries with relish. 
Don't judge us
Sunday we were ready to see the Jewish Quarter – something we didn’t do on our last trip due to Jewish holidays.  Since Saturdays they are always shut down to the public, and the Monday began another holiday, the crowds were MASSIVE.  Of course we were contributing to it too by being there.  Luckily we read something online that you could buy tickets at their information center, and we were able to by-pass lines that were easily 30+ minutes for a line with 2 people in it.  But we still had to wait in lines to get into the various buildings.  We saw the Spanish Synagogue (so beautiful), a building that had its walls covered in the victims of the Holocaust from the region (hard to capture the overwhelming-ness in photos… and it especially hit home when I found a victim with my own name….), and then made our way through the cemetery.  Even with all the crowds, it was worth it to finally see the Jewish Quarter. 

Hard to tell - but this is full of names.  There were so many walls just like this
The Weiss section, including a Julie

After our fill of crowds, we headed to the Letna Park.  We originally headed up to sit and enjoy the views from that perspective, but I realized I forgot to pack the sunscreen in the backpack.  Instead we found a skateboard park up there and a spot (in the shade) to watch guys try to master their tricks. 
The guy on the right did not land his jump
Before heading down, I decided to risk a bit of sunshine to get our photo with the bridges in the background. 


As you can probably guess, it was yet again time for a trdelnik. 
Us and our favorite steps (and me and my favorite food)
We figured we couldn’t go to Prague without at least walking around Prague Castle, and as the buildings themselves were closed, we thought dusk would be a good time to visit.  It was very nice to walk around the grounds with barely anyone there (the first time we got away from the main crowds).  
We missed both these spots last time - when the place is crowded, you often get funneled through the hotspots only


We ended the night walking around taking night photos, which means playing with long exposures and forcing Noah to pose for a gazillion pictures. 





Monday morning meant it was time to head back to Munich.  And since the rain had rolled in, it was perfect weather to cuddle up on the bus and watch movies as we made our way home.  After our second trip there, Prague still ranks as one of our favorite European cities and it wins the prize for being the most tourist-friendly and most accessible place to visit.  But most importantly, Praha is home of the Trdelniks!

Friday, June 1, 2012

Praha, the land of trdelniks

To celebrate our 2nd wedding anniversary, we ventured out to our first country whose native language is not English or German – the Czech Republic!  However bravery is not needed when visiting Prague (or Praha) – everyone we encountered spoke English (and often German too). 

Prague was a fantastic city to visit.  It is one of our favorite cities we have been to in Europe (including all the cities we visited in our month-long Europe tour after college).  Happily or sadly, depending on your point of view, it looks like many others think the same thing.  It was filled with fellow tourists!  Some are worse than others (it isn’t fun being caught behind a throng of elderly people following a tour guide), but it also made us feel safer and more comfortable knowing most people on the streets were just like us – visitors.

We arrived by a non-stop bus which was fabulous – think coach bus, not public transportation bus.  Surprisingly it is the quickest and cheapest way to Prague from Munich. If you take a train, you will have at least one connection, which makes it the slower option. 

Our first stop was to check out the Old Town square, which was right by our hotel.  Here we saw the Church of Our Lady of Tyn and the Staromestska Radnice – which houses an ancient astronomical clock (the Prague Orloj).  It was first installed in 1410, which makes it the oldest still-working astronomical clock in the WORLD!



We ventured down to the Powder Tower, where I found I am too short to cut it in a Medieval army (there goes my lifelong dream).



The next day we joined every other tourist in Prague and ventured up to the Prague Castle.  Here is a story of how NOT to be a tourist.  The Prague Castle requires a ticket to enter the buildings, and there are two types: short and long visit (you get access to more buildings with the long visit).  As we waited in the incredibly long line for the one cashier, we read the giant sign that explained the tickets and settled on the short visit.  Let me just mention this is translated into 8 different languages.  The lady in front of us spent a lot of time staring at the ticket explanations, and reading her guidebook.  We assumed she must really be debating the long or short visit, and looking up all the buildings in her book.  When this woman makes it to the sole cashier, we hear her ask for an explanation of the two tickets!!!  I mean, the line is out the door, she HAD to have read that sign 10 times, she read her guidebook the whole time, and she has to take up extra time at the ONE cashier to ask this?  My tip when traveling – please just be aware and courteous to all the other fellow travelers and locals.  This greatly reduces your chance of encountering rudeness.

Ok I am done with my rant.  Back to the castle - it was pretty amazing.  The building with the impressive spires is St. Vitus Cathedral – gorgeous!  We also visited St. George’s Basilica, the residence areas, and the Golden Lane (the last I could have skipped). 



The castle is built on a hill, so it offers some of the best views of the city.  We bothered three different people to take our photo, until we found a couple from Boston that took the winner.  Another tip for travelers – if you are on the picky side of how the background looks in a photo of you and your companions, look for someone with a fancy SLR-style camera.  They typically take better photos than people with point and shoot cameras.  And if you have an SLR, they already know how to work them.



Next marks one of the largest turning points of my life.  May 26th, 2012 will be marked as the first day I tasted trdelnik – a traditional sweet bread that is popular in the former Czechoslovakia area.  This is the best thing I have ever eaten.  It is basically dough that is wrapped around an iron pole and baked over a fire.  It is then rolled in a cinnamon/nut mixture, and at this place they would fill it with Nutella if you asked.  Oh I asked.  My mouth is watering just thinking about this.



Moving on (for my sake), we headed out on a mission to find the ‘cool wall’ that Noah spotted from the top of Prague Castle.  After wandering the curvy streets for a while, we found it.  It is in the Wallenstein Palace Gardens, and up close it was even ‘cooler’ looking than I expected it to be.  If you look, you can spot a face in the wall.



We ended the night back at the Old Town square for dinner outside.  This was becoming our favorite place to eat.  Great people watching, plenty of café’s with seating outside, and wonderful weather.  We also tried the ”real”/original Budweiser.  Anheuser-Busch copied this beer, and later in a Budweiser trademark dispute, the original Budweiser gave up the North American rights to the name. 

Sunday we planned to visit the Jewish Quarter and check out the Synagogues, but sadly they were all closed for Shavout.  We were really looking forward to the Jewish Cemetery, which looks really cool from photos.  Instead we settled on seeing the outside of the buildings and shopping for Christmas ornaments in the Mother Mary and Santa filled stores (yes, IN the Jewish Quarter – the only place we saw them).

With the day now free, we simply strolled around the city and bought 2 more trdelniks.  The steps at the end of Nerduova street was a great place to sit and eat and people watch. 

We also chose to take a dinner cruise down the Vltava River on our last night.  Noah found a flyer for the Jazz Boat, and it was soon decided this was the cruise to take.  We had a nice table by the window, listened/watched the live jazz band, and ate a three course meal.  It was a great way to end our anniversary weekend. 

Noah woke up early Monday before we left to take some amazing sunrise photos.  He was debating whether or not to do it when we realized that we have sunrise pictures from our honeymoon in Hawaii, and sunrise pictures from our first wedding anniversary in Lake Tahoe.  If he stopped now, it would end a potentially awesome tradition (awesome because I am not the one waking up early – though to my credit I did in Tahoe).  So I will leave you with a few of his best shots.