Sunday, June 30, 2013

Happy Birthday in Hamburg


Let me tell you that a life of 30 days of vacation while living and traveling Europe is not easy.  As I write this, it is the first weekend we are home by ourselves in about 8 weeks.  We capped off our busy stretch of visitors and trips with a visit to Hamburg for my birthday weekend.  The 100EUR round trip flight deal we saw a few months ago seemed too good to skip, and so we went, saw, relaxed, and celebrated my 28th birthday in style along the city on the harbor.

Hamburg is a special place because of its history and establishment as a harbor port along the Elbe river, which flows North draining into the North Sea (now the 2nd largest port in Europe).  Therefore the industry, architecture, weather, and culture make Hamburg feel like an ocean side city even though it sits on a river 100 miles away from the coast.
After checking in the hotel and filling up on some Thai food, we started our visit at the Ballinstadt Museum.  This museum highlights the emigration of 5 million Europeans who left for a better life from the port in Hamburg, many of whom spent their last night at the accommodation provided by Albert Ballin.  We saw what it would have been like for our European ancestors who would have sacrificed everything and endured so much hardship to immigrate to America.  This left us with a rather strange feeling considering how we had undone all their hard work over a century later by simply taking a 12 hour, comfortable flight back across the ocean so we could live in Europe. Overall it was a very cool, well-presented museum. 

Afterwards we went to the International Garden Show, which was being hosted in the area.  25 euros, a lot of unnecessary walking, and one very confusing return monorail ride back later, we realized that this was kind of a bad idea.  At least we got some nice photos of the flowers. 

We set off our first morning in Hamburg for what seemed like an easy search for a bagel shop (at least according to Google maps).  About an hour later we gave up and settled in at a chain, Balzac Coffee, at the modern shopping mall - it was not a complete loss because they did have (two) bagels there.  We always have to laugh at ourselves when we make an effort to get off the beaten path and discover something new, only to be sucked back into the mass tourist areas.  This was one of those moments.

We spent the first part of the day cruising around the city: the Rathaus, the Alster lakes, Hafen City and the canals, and doing some window shopping.  

Having adapted to the typical festival in Bavaria, we were naturally drawn to the Stuttgart wine festival for lunch, which featured food/drink tents with Dirndl clad waitresses.  Maybe we were overly adventurous when we ordered typical Stuttgart specialties flammekuche and maultauschen for lunch, because while we could eat them the one time, we won’t be ordering those again.  

Afterwards, we went down to the famous Reeperbahn street/ St. Pauli district (red-light, bar, party scene).  Here we ran into 10,000 biker dudes and loud Harleys because the world’s largest Harley Davidson convention was being hosted this weekend.  We might have sped-walked through the scene to find something a little more peaceful. 

After regrouping back at our hotel, we switched gears and went up the tower in St. Michaelis church which gave us the essence of Hamburg impression. 


Sunday (my Birthday!!), we decided to scratch the famous early Sunday fish market so we could take it easy and go for a swim at the hotel spa.  Here we were surprised to find out that most of the people, well actually all of the men, were not wearing swimsuits in the pool.  So that was a more awkward swimming pool experience than expected, but we still enjoyed our first swim of 2013 nonetheless (as it’s been snowy/rainy/cold pretty much all year in Munich).  Sorry – no pictures for this one.

Thanks to an insider tip from Julie’s coworker, we set sail on the harbor on the public transit ferry 62 where we got up close to the shipping industry and some nice views of the city.  Much cheaper to just use the HVV bahn ticket we already had rather than spend 20EUR+ for a ‘professional’ boat tour. 

As the weather was turning south, we took an afternoon break and watched a movie and facetimed with momma.  We then went out for a high-end fish dinner along the water at the upscale Fischereihafen, which began my spontaneous birthday evening.  Since I was unable to decide from the menu, I just chose the 4-course chef’s surprise.  All four courses were equally delicious (tuna tartare, prawns, local fish battered, and a mixed dessert plate), but it was extra special because it was the first time I ever had a waiter reveal my entrée in front of my face by removing one of those fancy silver covers.  Man, this was the ultimate birthday surprise! 
Not the prettiest looking building for a fancy restaurant, but the views the other way are much nicer
Afterwards we climbed stairs to the top of a building near the restaurant to catch some nice sunset views.  There we asked a German man to take our photo and we got to talking in German for a bit.  After a few minutes he told us about an open-air concert along the Reeperbahn which we must go see and offered to drive us himself.  It took him a bit of convincing, because Julie was playing old episodes of CSI in her head, while I was thinking hitchhiking to the Reeperbahn is probably not a good idea.  But once I met the man’s wife and learned he worked for a public TV broadcast station, and they had a daughter studying in California, they passed my ocular pat down. So we went along and were dropped off at the concert on the Reeperbahn (without anyone being kidnapped or drugged).  The concert was actually a fundraiser for victims of the recent flooding.  It was a really cool, pleasant event and we heard a new German artist whose album we bought later. 
Sunset
Benefit concert.  The artist on the right - Anna Depenbusch - is whose album we bought 
When we made it back to the hotel, we decided to give ourselves a bit of a tour to see what else this place had.  When we went to the top floor, we noticed the door to the penthouse suite was open.  We had a look around to see how the other half lives and caught some nice views from the private balcony.  It was the perfect end to my spontaneous birthday evening. 

On Monday we had half of the day to kill before catching our flight back home.  So we scheduled a tour at the Miniatur Wunderland, which is an enormous display of small worlds complete with planes, cars, people, animals, culture, and of course lots of model trains.  They have around 10 different countries on display, including a special feature of our own Bavaria and one of USA.  It was all very awesome, but it’s the kind of place where two hours of fighting through crowds and children for a view can wear you out. 
Bavaria, Hamburg, Las Vegas
They even simulate night vs day 
You can see the planes take off

After 4 great days celebrating me, it was time to make the 1-hour flight home.  Auf Wiedersehen Hamburg! 

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